Thinking about - everyday thoughts...: May 2012

Osaka is Japan's third largest city after Tokyo and Yokohama. Also, next to Tokyo and Kyoto it is known as the top three culinary centres of Japan - instant noodles were invented here in 1958. Favourite local dishes include oshizuhi, in which sushi is placed in stainless steel molds and sliced; udon suki, buckwheat noodles and meat in a rich broth served in a ceramic stew pot; okonomiyaki, a batter and vegetable pancake-type dish developed in 1700 as a Buddhist ritual food.


The okonomiyaki in Osaka is the best I have ever eaten. It is one of my favourite dishes.

We arrived late in the evening in Osaka, got settled at the hotel and then some of us went out for a stroll around the city and to eat - Okonomiyaki, of course! My first impression of Osaka was not what I had expected. Considering I had been in Japan for a while and had visited quite a few cities already that were spot clean, Osaka was not. It surprised me to see people smoking freely on the street - usually, you can't smoke wherever you want, there are special spaces for it and only there you can smoke. So, in Osaka this didn't apply and after smoking, they would throw the butts on the sidewalk and not only cigarette butts, but bottles and other stuff. You may think I'm a rigid person with this "clean sidewalks" thing, but you just don't see this in Japan too often.

Dotonbori canal district

Kani Doraku Crab: This six and a half meter crab is on the front of the crab restaurant Kani Doraku. It is mechanised, being able to move its arms and eyestalks. Built in 1960, this mechanical billboard soon spawned imitations, including a squid that puffs steam and oni (demons) that light up at night.

Glico Man: Originally installed in 1935, the giant neon athlete on a blue track is a symbol of Glico candy.

And I can't really explain it, but there was a different atmosphere in Osaka. Of course, not one city is the same, but here it was something like more of a punk, rouge attitude. Or maybe it's just that "yakuza" atmosphere that the guides talk about... almost like an event in itself:

"The word yakuza was originally used to describe the classess group of thieves, gamblers and outlaws who floated around large cities and ports during the Edo period. Osaka is the center of the modern yakuza and most influential crime syndicates. Irezumi (tattoos), thoough traditionally an art form, are considered anti-social in Japan and are strongly associated with the yakuza. If you see a tattooed person with a missing finger or two - the result of self-mutilation equated in the yakuza world with machismo - the chances are that person will be a gang member."

Yakuza often take part in local festivals such as Sanja Matsuri where they often carry the shrine through the streets proudly showing off their elaborate tattoos. - Wikipedia

Osaka's importance as a merchant city dates from Toyotomi Hideyoshi's building of Osaka Castle in 1586.

"With its 1250 Japanese plum trees and 4500 cherry trees, Osaka Castle Park is a famous spot for spring flower viewing festivities. The Osaka Castle Chrysantheum Festival is held in the autumn. The illuminated castle tower, shining golden in the night, is a must-see sight." - is what my flyer for the Osaka Castle Museum says.

And since I am fascinated with the history of Japan, a brief presentation of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

100 Aspects of the Moon #7, by Tsukioka Yoshitoshi: "Mount Inaba Moon." The young Toyotomi Hideyoshi (then named Kinoshita Tōkichirō) leads a small group assaulting the castle on Mount Inaba; 1885, 12th month - Wikipedia

Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-98) was a daimyo, warrior, general and politician of the Sengoku period. He unified the political factions of Japan. He succeeded his former liege lord, Oda Nobunaga, and brought an end to the Sengoku period. The period of his rule is often called the Momoyama period, named after Hideyoshi's castle. He is noted for a number of cultural legacies, including the restriction that only members of the samurai class could bear arms. Hideyoshi is regarded as Japan's second "great unifier".

Toyotomi Hideyoshi changed Japanese society in many ways. These include imposition of a rigid class structure, restriction on travel, and surveys of land and production.

Class reforms affected commoners and warriors. During the Sengoku period, it had become common for peasants to become warriors, or for samurai to farm due to the constant uncertainty caused by the lack of centralized government and always tentative peace. Upon taking control, Hideyoshi decreed that all peasants be disarmed completely. Conversely, he required samurai to leave the land and take up residence in the castle towns. This solidified the social class system for the next 300 years.
Furthermore, he ordered comprehensive surveys and a complete census of Japan. Once this was done and all citizens were registered, he required all Japanese to stay in their respective han unless they obtained official permission to go elsewhere. This ensured order in a period when bandits still roamed the countryside and peace was still new. The land surveys formed the basis for systematic taxation.

In 1590, Hideyoshi completed construction of the Osaka Castle, the largest and most formidable in all Japan, to guard the western approaches to Kyoto. In that same year, Hideyoshi banned "unfree labor" or slavery; but forms of contract and indentured labor persisted alongside the period penal codes' forced labor.
Hideyoshi also influenced the material culture of Japan. He lavished time and money on the tea ceremony, collecting implements, sponsoring lavish social events, and patronizing acclaimed masters. As interest in the tea ceremony rose among the ruling class, so too did demand for fine ceramic implements, and during the course of the Korean campaigns, not only were large quantities of prized ceramic ware confiscated, many Korean artisans were forcibly relocated to Japan.
Inspired by the dazzling Golden Pavilion in Kyoto, he also constructed a fabulous portable tea room, covered with gold leaf and lined inside with red gossamer. Using this mobile innovation, he was able to practice the tea ceremony wherever he went, powerfully projecting his unrivaled power and status upon his arrival.
Politically, he set up a governmental system that balanced out the most powerful Japanese warlords (or daimyo). A council was created to include the most influential lords. At the same time, a regent was designated to be in command.
Just prior to his death, Hideyoshi hoped to set up a system stable enough to survive until his son grew old enough to become the next leader. A Council of Five Elders was formed, consisting of the five most powerful daimyo. Following the death of Maeda Toshiie, however, Tokugawa Ieyasu began to secure alliances, including political marriages (which had been forbidden by Hideyoshi). Eventually, the pro-Toyotomi forces fought against the Tokugawa in the Battle of Sekigahara. Ieyasu won and received the title of Seii-tai Shogun two years later.
Hideyoshi is commemorated at several Toyokuni Shrines scattered over Japan.
Ieyasu left in place the majority of Hideyoshi's decrees and built his shogunate upon them. This ensured that Hideyoshi's cultural legacy remained. In a letter to his wife, Hideyoshi wrote:

“I mean to do glorious deeds and I am ready for a long siege, with provisions and gold and silver in plenty, so as to return in triumph and leave a great name behind me. I desire you to understand this and to tell it to everybody."

Today, opposite the entrance gate to the castle there are the NHK Osaka building (left) and the Osaka Prefecture Police Headquarters (right) - talking about contrasts in Japan, you can really see it here.

Continuing our tour of the city, we went to the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, one of the largest aquariums in the world, it holds 13,5 million liters of water. You descend through 14 levels representing fish and mammal habitats found within the Pacific Ocean belt. Over 35,000 creatures inhabit the aquarium, including whale sharks.

Taking the train to the aquarium

And talking about trains in Osaka, I was surprised to find that public transport is more expensive than in Tokyo.

Theme of Kaiyukan (from the aquarium flyer) : Relationship between Nature and People

This theme follows a part of Gaia Hypothesis advocated br Dr. James Lovelock. Main idea of the hypothesis is that the Earth and its living things form an organism where they interact with each other. Kaiyukan reproduces nature around the Pacific Ocean as closely as it can with two concepts such as Ring of Fire (Circum-Pacific Volcanic Belt) and Ring of Life based on the above theme.Kaiyukan Aquarium respects the dignity of life and natural environment. A Japanese word Kaiyukan literally means "Playing in the Sea Pavilion."

On the way to the aquarium, we passed the Tempozan Giant Ferris Wheel - one of the largest Ferris wheels in the world. Reaching the top, you can admire the panoramic view of Osaka bay, the Ikoma mountain range to the east, Akashi Kaikyo Bridge to the west, Kansai International Airport to the south, and the Rokko mountain range to the north. And even though it was a cloudy and rainy day - like most of our days in Japan were this time - the view from the Ferris wheel was amazing. These two things - the aquarium and the Ferris wheel next to it - you really shouldn't miss. And there was a special offer for the ticket if you bought one that included the visit to the aquarium and a spin with the Ferris wheel.

Inside the aquarium:

Harbor seal and California sea lion - Monterey Bay

Ringtailed coati - Gulf of Panama

Ecuador Rain Forest

Adelie penguin, King penguin, Gentoo penguin - Antarctica

(this image, I thought was really sad)

Great Barrier Reef

Pacific Ocean

Japan Deeps - Giant spider crab

Floating Jelly Fish

The tour ended with the Jelly fish - now heading to the Ferris Wheel.


The aquarium - viewed from the Ferris Wheel

cloudy, rainy, cold day

The Ferris wheel spin over, we decided to go to the shopping area of Osaka - I had the feeling I walked more than I actually had from one end to the other of this area. It's like this really long pedestrian passage that is almost 3 km long.

What we passed on the way:

The most wonderful car, outside a church (these days, many couples get married Western style instead of having a traditional Shinto ceremony because it's cheaper and more attractive - like the bride's gown)

Outside a temple

Inside the temple

Moving along the shopping district, I really liked the colour of this dress

(my favourite colour is blue, but I found I have more green clothes and bags than blue O.o go figure!)

It was quite an experience, shopping in Osaka - spent a few hours in the shopping district, bought lots of things at great prices I couldn't resist, like a hat that was on sale from 3.000 Yen to 800... how could anyone say no? - also took care of the list that I had from some friends, things they asked me to buy.

That evening we had dinner at a traditional restaurant. The food was really good, drank hot sake (I like it better hot than cold) but what I liked the most was dessert: sakura ice cream - ice made of petals of cherry blossoms. Not too sweet, not too sour, just puuuuurrrrfect!

So, all in all, great day, interesting city, very crowded, nice bargains, lots and lots of places to visit, things to see - we didn't even get to see half, but that's left for next time.
Before going, make sure you book your hotel in advance. Depending on the time of year you're going, you may find yourself without a room. Since we went in the season of the blooming of the cherry trees, here in Osaka and in Kyoto too, all the hotels were full with not only foreigners, but also many Japanese people who had come especially to see the cherries in a certain city that is reputed to have beautiful gardens and castles.